The short answer
Roof tiles lift when whatever holds them down has weakened. The usual suspects are missing or corroded clips, nails that have rusted through or never gripped, worn battens, and open edges at the verge and ridge where wind gets underneath. A roofer finds which of these applies, refixes or replaces the affected tiles, and checks the nearby ones before the next blow.
What wind does to a tiled roof
Wind does two things at once. It pushes on the windward slope, and it pulls on the lee side and over the top, where air speeds up and the pressure drops. That suction is what lifts a tile. Roofs are tested against it, but only if the tiles are fixed as the design intended.
A tile is held by its own weight, by nails through its head into a batten, and by clips in the places that need them. On a calm day a loose tile sits there looking normal. In a gale the same tile flutters, lifts, drops and cracks its neighbours, and sometimes the whole row goes. Listen for a clatter overhead in the night, then look at the roof in daylight from the garden, using binoculars if you have them.
Do not climb up to check. Tiles that look sound can be loose, and a loose tile moves under your foot, as our page on walking on a tiled roof explains.
Missing clips and failed nails
Many older roofs relied on gravity and a single nail per tile, and some tiles were never nailed at all. Where tiles are only hanging by their nibs, a strong gust will shift them. Clips are small metal or plastic fittings that lock the tile to the batten or to the tile below, and they are the first line of defence against uplift. If they were never fitted, or have corroded away, the tile has little to resist the wind.
Nails fail too. Galvanised steel nails last well, but poor-quality or plain steel ones rust, and after enough winters the shank thins and snaps. The tile then sits loose, held by nothing but friction. In the loft you may find a scatter of rusty nail heads on the felt, which is a clue.
The remedy is to refix with stainless or aluminium nails, add clips, and replace any tile with a damaged nail hole. Our guide to tile clips looks at which tiles need them.
Gaps at the verge and the ridge
The edges of a roof are the most exposed. Two spots matter most: the verge, at the gable end where the slope stops short of the wall, and the ridge, the peak where two slopes meet. Both are places where wind finds a gap and gets underneath the covering.
At the verge, tiles that overhang the gable wall are bedded on mortar. If that mortar crumbles, the tiles lose their grip and the gable edge lifts first. At the ridge, the capping tiles can loosen too, since the bedding was never meant to do the whole job. BS 5534:2014 changed the approach, adding metal fixings to ridge and hip work, so an older roof with only mortar under the ridge may be weaker than it looks.
Edge repairs involve taking off the loose pieces, cleaning the line and refixing properly. Whether the answer is new bedding plus metal fixings, or a dry-fix kit depends on what the roof already has.
Worn battens and tired underlay
Even a well-nailed tile fails if the batten beneath it has gone soft. Boards and battens soaked season after season hold a nail only loosely, and uplift can then pull the nail straight out. In that case replacing nails achieves little. The battens have to change, and that usually means stripping the area.
The underlay matters as well, because it affects how air moves through the roof. When felt is torn or tired, gusts can enter the batten space and push up on the tiles from beneath. Our roof underlay guide describes what the layer does and how long it tends to last.
Roofs with heavy moss are also worth a look. A deep carpet of moss keeps water pressed on the tiles and timber, which speeds up decay, and it adds weight that the fixings must carry.
Roof types that behave differently
Interlocking concrete tiles, plain clay tiles and pantiles do not fail in the same way. Interlocking tiles rely on their side locks and a clip at the head, so a broken lock is the first thing to check. Plain tiles overlap heavily and are usually nailed at intervals, so a loose one points to a nail problem. Pantiles have curved profiles that can rattle if the nibs have worn, and our page on pantile roofs deals with that profile.
Anything added to a roof changes the picture. Solar panels sit on brackets fixed through the covering, and a poorly fixed array can funnel wind under the tiles around it. We cover that on solar panels on a tiled roof.
Height and position count for something too. An end-of-terrace house, or one standing on open ground beyond the last street, faces more wind than one tucked among neighbours, so we pay closer attention to fixings at those locations.
What a repair involves, and when to call
After a storm, call as soon as you see a displaced tile, a gap in a row or a tile on the ground. A single missing tile lets water reach the underlay and the battens, and the damage then grows quietly. A leaking roof gets made safe first, then we work out the proper repair.
On the survey, we photograph the affected area and the tiles beside it, and look for the pattern behind the failure. Loose tiles seldom come alone. If one has gone, the next may follow in the next gale, so we price the fix for the whole fault rather than the single tile. The quote arrives in writing, and we advise the smallest job that cures it.
If the cause is general ageing, with brittle tiles and rotted battens across a large area, re-covering is more sensible than endless patching, and we will tell you plainly. For a repair visit on your own roof, talk to our pitched roofing team on 01793 626096, or message us on WhatsApp or complete the contact form.