The short answer
Electric roof windows are worth it when the window sits out of reach, in a bathroom or kitchen that needs ventilating, or for anyone who cannot easily operate a pole or handle. MyBuilder's roof window guide, updated August 2026, puts electric units at £420 to £590 against about £305 for a standard manual window, before fitting. Solar-powered versions avoid mains wiring to the window.
How electric and solar windows work
An electric roof window has a small motor in the frame that opens and closes the sash. You operate it with a wall switch or a handheld remote, and many models close themselves when a built-in sensor detects rain. A mains-powered version needs a cable run from a supply to the window, which means an electrician and some chasing out of the ceiling or lining.
A solar-powered version has a small solar cell and battery in the unit, so there is no mains cable to route. That makes it the easier option in a finished loft or a room where wiring would be disruptive, though it relies on daylight to keep the battery topped up. Either type can be paired with electric blinds and a rain sensor, and some link into a home control system.
Some mains-powered models are low voltage, with a transformer in the loft or elsewhere. That is worth knowing, as it affects where the electrician puts the power supply.
What they cost against manual windows
MyBuilder's roof window guide, updated in August 2026, shows a basic centre-pivot model around £305 and electric ones between £420 and £590. Installation for standard jobs is given as £350 to £600, labour and fitting included, and scaffolding is around £500. Those are national guide figures, not Skyline prices.
The window itself is only part of the gap. Wiring adds electrician time. A rain sensor, a remote or a controller can add to the total. The running cost is small: these motors only draw power for the few seconds they are moving, so almost all of the price difference arrives on day one.
Whatever the guides say, the number to plan around is the quotation we write once the survey is done, and with any firm it is wise to confirm that VAT and scaffolding are counted in. Ours is one total price for the whole job, wiring included.
Where an electric window earns its place
The strongest argument for a motor is height. A window set high above a stairwell, or in a steep slope, is beyond arm's reach, and a pole is awkward to manage. A motor makes it usable every day.
The second case is ventilation. Bathrooms, kitchens and utility rooms benefit from windows that open on a timer or at a touch, and a rain sensor means you can leave a window cracked open without worrying about the weather. The third is accessibility, for anyone with limited reach, strength or balance, and for households where a window above a staircase would otherwise stay shut all year.
Some people also like the convenience in a loft bedroom, where the window can be opened or closed from bed without climbing onto a chair, and a rain sensor shuts it if a shower arrives overnight. That kind of convenience is subjective, but it is real for the people who use it daily.
In a bedroom, many people like to open the window from bed. In a spare room used a few times a year, the extra cost is hard to justify.
When a manual window is the better buy
Windows within easy reach of a handle do not need a motor. A manual centre-pivot window is simple, with fewer parts to fail and no electrics to maintain. If a window rarely needs opening, or if the budget is tight, a manual unit with a decent blind and good ventilation elsewhere is often the more sensible spend.
Spare parts and support also deserve a thought. Ask who stocks the motor and the controller in future, as a window can outlast a particular control unit by many years.
Think about repairs too, since a roof window sits in a place that is awkward and sometimes costly to reach. A motor or control unit is one more component that can wear out, whereas a manual hinge has little to go wrong. Before ordering, check what the manufacturer's guarantee covers for motors and sensors, and who supports them after installation.
Planning, sizes and the other practical points
An electric window is still a roof window, so the same rules apply. Under the permitted development rights, many houses can add them without a planning application, with side-slope windows obscure-glazed. Building Regulations apply to a new opening and to the energy rating of the glazing, and any electrical work must meet the wiring regulations. Where the job is notifiable, we explain the consent route and deal with the Building Regulations notification for you.
The standard size codes are the same as for manual models, and our roof window sizes page explains them. Glazing choices, such as obscure glass for a bathroom, are covered on roof window obscure glass.
Leaks and who to ask
A motor does not change how water gets in. Leaks at roof windows nearly always come from flashing, seals or installation, not from the opener; if one appears, see why a roof window leaks. A flat rooflight leaks for different reasons, covered on why a flat roof skylight leaks.
If you are thinking about electric windows, send us the roof details and the room they are for. We survey the roof, take photographs, and write the quote with the electrical work clearly scoped. Our fitting is covered by a 10-year workmanship guarantee in writing. The skylights and roof windows page has the rest.